RETINOL………. Because who doesn’t want smoother, brighter, acne free, wrinkle free skin.

For my first official blog post I figured that retinoids would be the perfect topic because if ya’ll know me its my go to skin care product for my clients as well as for myself. Guys, this product is life changing and the one thing if anything that everyone should be on. This magical wonder tackles almost all skin concerns and usually within a few weeks you will start to see results. That is, if used properly. Many of us have a love hate relationship with retinoids. We have all heard or experienced extreme redness, peeling or purging but I promise with proper use you all will know why myself, most of my clients, and fellow estheticians are obsessed.

So what exactly is retinol? In short retinol is a form of vitamin A that is delivered into the skin. It tells the cells to turn over at a rapid rate revealing the new fresh cells. helping with texture, fine lines and wrinkles, overall smoothness and reveals a brighter clearer complexion. There are many forms that you may see such as retinol, retin A, retinaldehyde, tretinoin, and Vitamin A. While they are all very similar in results the main thing you should know is how they are delivered into the skin. Prescriptions while effective, give a faster delivery into the dermis (middle layer of the skin) by penetrating into the epidermis (top layer) at a rapid rate. Think of smacking the water’s surface when jumping in a pool. While it is delivered into the skin at a faster rate it doesn’t always mean the best and most beneficial. Many prescriptions can be too harsh on the skin’s surface leading to extreme redness and or peeling which is why patients can become discouraged. Retinols or reninaldahydes are delivered in a much slower way into the dermal level still absorbing into the skin but with lower risks of that extreme redness and peeling leading to less sensitivities due time release technology.

So how do you know which is right for you? That’s where the professionals come in. I get it skin care can be expensive and quite frankly be very overwhelming for consumers. For results stick to medical grade or prescription. If you are trying to treat an issue you wouldn’t want to waste your time and money on products that have little to no science backed behind them. Over the counter products have a very low percentage of actual retinol. While they may claim to have a 1% retinol ingredients used for shelf life, fragrance, and texture will dilute and or even cancel out the active retinol that was put in. Also, pay attention on where the ingredient stands in the ingredient list, that will tell you what percentage of the actual product is in the container. That’s why that ROC retinol won’t make you peel if used every day, and using a medical grade even 2-3 times a week will give a little shed in the skin. Sorry guys, that expensive department store product isn’t doing it for ya either. I know it smells amazing and feels good on the skin but as far as anti aging or treating an actual issue you will find it just won’t make the cut. We all want to believe that drunk elephant and chanel are miracle age erasers but just because there is a hefty price tag or a hot trend on social media, this doesn’t mean it is doing what it says its going to do. Biggest thing is look at where you are getting your information and is it marketing or science.

OK, so you brought home a retinol now what? First off this is a SLOW process and this is key using it slowly about 2 times a week with days in between will get your skin used to it and then able to slowly add days as long as you are tolerating it. This is key as if you use it everyday you will get redness peeling and sensitivities leading to frustration. Once tolerated at 2 times a week adding days slowly working it up to every other day to every day with no peeling is key. Again, your esthetician or doctor will give you the right direction. Always remember to use sunscreen with this product as it can and will lead to sun sensitivity. Great for active acne and spot treating as well. Make sure to avoid the eye areas as it can irritate. Your professional will also determine which percentage would be best for skin concern and your skin type. Lower percentages such as a .25 are great for beginners and or sensitive or rosacea prone skin and a .5 is perfect for mild to moderate fine line and wrinkles and breakout prone or acne clients. A 1.0 is for the retinol veterans who have built up a tolerance and those who have a bit of tougher skin so to speak.

Don’t worry guys this product wont break the bank either! You’ll find that most medical grade ranges from $62-$125 depending on the brand and percentage. Good news is that most last about 4-6 months and usually you will want to chuck it after about 9 months after opening as the product will change in efficacy, color, won’t be as effective, or could create an unwanted reaction if expired. Some of my favorites are Skin Medica, Susan Obagi Retivance, Skin Better Alpha ret, and PCA .

Hope everyone thought this was useful information, please comment with any questions or feedback. I would love any future questions regarding skin care treatments, products, or beauty tips and tricks! What is everyone’s go to product?

Enjoy your weekend we are finally getting closer to that spring weather here in Upstate New York!